Cosmetic acupuncture

Can cosmetic acupuncture really make a difference to the way a face looks?

 Madonna, Cher and Gwyneth Paltrow have all spoken glowingly in public about it. Prince William and Diane Lane are rumoured to be converts, and there are even specialist clinics in London devoted exclusively to the practice of cosmetic acupuncture. Sometimes referred to as "acupuncture facial rejuvenation" or "the acupuncture facelift", a 1996 study on cosmetic acupuncture in the International Journal Of Clinical Acupuncture reported that of the 300 people who took part, 90 per cent saw marked improvements after just one treatment.

A former dancer for the Australian Ballet and Sydney Theatre Company, Darren Spowart has been studying and practising traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and acupuncture for 10 years. He has studied facial acupuncture with two of the field's leading authorities in the USA, Virginia Doran and Mary Elizabeth Wakefield.

"Many of my clients were starting to think about the effects of ageing but didn't want to do anything drastic," says Sydney-based Spowart. "I believe beauty emerges from inner health. Of my clients who've tried cosmetic acupuncture, I've seen a definite reduction in lines and under-eye bags, and the skin looks softer and more taut. One of my clients had a surgical scar on her cheekbone that she was so self-conscious about, she always wore glasses to cover it. She's not wearing them anymore!"

Treatment involves the use of super-fine needles to target any problem areas on your face and neck and to address any underlying health issues that may be contributing to these problems. Spowart says the needles encourage nutrient-rich blood flow and stimulate muscle activity and toning and can also encourage collagen growth. The needles are left in place for 20 to 30 minutes. Cosmetic acupuncture is a safe procedure; rare, and minor, side effects include slight bruising or spot bleeding at the needle site.

Spowart recommends a course of 12 to 15 treatments over two and a half months, followed by maintenance treatments every four to six weeks. Charles Yarborough, director of the American Cosmetic Acupuncture Association, says his association discourages the use of the word "facelift" as there are no incisions, sutures or acid peels during the procedure, and it will not produce sudden, drastic changes in underlying structures.

"The remedy cosmetic acupuncture may offer is the reduction or erasure of fine lines and the softening of deeper ones," he wrote in a recent association newsletter. " Additionally, patients may experience the firming of jowls and a reduction in the size of under-eye bags." He adds that as facial acupuncture is based on TCM, a person's overall health may also benefit. "Insomnia may be corrected and weight gain may be controlled. Cosmetic acupuncture is, after all, a whole-body treatment. In the TCM view, a person's face is affected selectively by his or her internal organs."

One of Spowart's clients, Karen Volich, is 55 and runs her own business. "I wasn't badly lined, but I did have lines around my mouth that I hated and I was starting to get worried about nasal labial lines and my jaw," she says. "I had the whole treatment last October, and I've been really impressed. It was even better than I expected. There's been a definite tightening around my jaw, neck and nasal labial lines, and people keep telling me how fantastic I look. I'll definitely keep it up."

What is acupuncture?

Traditional acupuncture, a system of healing that focuses on improving overall wellbeing, is based on ancient Chinese theories of the flow of qi (energy). Acupuncture, inserting special needles into acupoints (specific points on the body), stimulates and enhances the free flow of qi, regulating the energetic balanceof the body.

The location of the points, the nature of the problem, the person's size and age and the acupuncturist's style are all factors that will determine how deeply the needles are inserted into the skin. Acupuncture needles are usually inserted from a few millimetres to two centimetres in depth. There can be some discomfort, but it is not painful.

The College of Traditional Chinese Medicine at the University of Technology, Sydney, says acupuncture has shown itself to be "an effective and safe form of therapy when applied with a rigorous adherence to traditional Chinese medical concepts by well-trained practitioners".

Road test

I've had acupuncture a number of times before. Still, the thought of many needles in my face is not pleasant. Darren Spowart tells me the initial treatment will take at least 90 minutes and will include a consultation about general health, as well as covering my own skin concerns. My main one is not wanting to look tired.

Spowart starts at my ankles, which surprises me; I was expecting pure pinhead action. But as he explains, acupuncture treats your overall health too. I have pins in my feet, ankles, inner knees, hands and wrists before he gets anywhere near my head.

I end up with 63 needles in my face and head. The ones that go into your head are the most ... interesting. Before he places them, Spowart massages the skin so that when he places the needles, it feels as though he is pinning my face back. It is odd, but certainly not unpleasant. I am then left alone for a blissful half hour.

When I asked Spowart if I would notice a difference after only one treatment he was unsure, and I wasn't expecting to see anything. But the next morning, and for a few days afterwards, I looked fabulous - if I do say so myself: well-rested, which I wasn't, and healthier. I'm definitely going back for more.

• Initial consultations cost $180,. Call 081916190029 / 0361 768249